PROENZA SCHOULER DEBUT
In their highly-anticipated Paris debut at the start of couture week, New York-based label Proenza Schouler enlisted the help of Parisian ateliers and French artisans to shape their runway designs. The result? A collection from a brand that might hark from the U.S. but felt wholly Parisian in its cut and energy.
Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez used oversize asymmetrical ruffles to produce a downward-moving silhouette. Bell-shaped fabric ruffles hung limply off the shoulder or cascaded haphazardly down the torso in many of the frothy looks. The sense of unfurling continued in pointed heels that opened at the top — evoking a sense of hurried (un-)dress.
It was a creative collection — in black and white, shot with flame red. Parisian-style tuxedo jackets in exaggerated proportions had side sections that were snipped away, and sported oversize pockets. Meanwhile, floral motifs and floral lace were used abstractly on layered gowns to blurredly confuse the eye and make a clever play on depths. ___ By Thomas Adamson